Truffle hunting and extraction

The knowledge and practices associated with Italian truffle hunting and extraction have been handed down orally throughout the centuries using a variety of fables and legendary tales.

Apparently, it was the famous gastronomist and writer Bartolomeo Platina, who first mentioned truffle hunting in 1481, when he stated that the sows of Notza were the best at harvesting truffles, but needed to be muzzled so that they would not eat them.

The research and trade of truffles have been famous in two cities since the Middle Ages: Casale Monferrato, which was annexed in Savoy and supplied truffles to Mantua's Gonzaga court and Tortona, which supplied truffles to Milan's Visconti-Sforza family.

Despite the fact that truffle hunting has changed rapidly over the past centuries, it is still an integral part of rural life in Italy, especially in the Piedmont region. In general, truffle hunters, or ‘tartufai’, live in small rural communities and villages.

To harvest truffles, there are two steps: hunting and extraction. The hunting involves identifying where the truffle plants grow, which produces the underground fungus that is known as ‘truffle’. Traditionally this step was carried out using sows but nowadays hunters prefer trained dogs. The final step is very delicate because the truffles must be extracted from the ground without disturbing the soil, the hunters usually use a special spade to locate where the truffles can be found.

A truffle hunt includes a variety of skills and knowledge (about climate, environment, and vegetation) related to the management of natural ecosystems but probably the most important is the relationship between a truffle hunter and his dog. Dogs must be trained not only in the truffle seek but also in the primary digging activity, being careful that they don’t damage the truffle with their nails or mouth.

The hunting of truffles is often associated with popular feasts that mark the start of and the end of truffle season. Expressions originating within the community reflect its cultural identity and also strengthen the community's sense of solidarity. This practice respects ecological balance as well as plant biodiversity, conserving the truffle species until the following season.