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Ojiya-chijimi and Echigo-jofu



A technique of making ramie fabric referred to as Okiya-chijimi and Echigo-jofu develops in Uonuma region, Niigata Prefecture. It was developed in the north-western part of Japan's main island and is characterized by its cooler climate, particularly its snowy winters. The technique is old. Ramie weaving began in ancient times and was dedicated to the Tokugawa Shogunate in the seventeenth century. A hot and humid summer is ideal for clothing made from ramie weaving, so it has been popular with many different classes throughout history. Consequently, these textiles have been continuously produced as a cultural pride for the people of the community. Their production technique has been passed down from generation to generation until today. Production takes place in a heavy snowfall area, which means the area will be closed for half a year, and thus, the production techniques are developed to maximize the distinctive nature of the climate. The yukizarashi method, which is well-known as a unique part of the production process, involves spreading the woven textiles on the snow in which the ozone is released as the snow evaporates.

Traditional Ojiya-chijimi and Echigo-jofu are fabrics originating from a region of heavy snowfall and developed through experience, wisdom, and patience. The fabric is now manufactured under strict conditions governed by Important Intangible Cultural Property registration. In addition to stringing the ramie fibers, they are twisted into threads by hand. When tie-dying, bundles of ramie threads, wrapped tightly with cotton, are tied with the dye until a geometric or floral pattern is produced. The cloth is then woven into the fabric with back-strap looms and then washed in hot water, after which the cloth is massaged with the feet. The wet fabric is then placed on the snow-covered fields for ten to twenty days in order to allow the ozone released by the snow's evaporation to lighten. To date, these conditions have been perpetuated and transmitted by the association and the people involved.

About forty tan (one-kimono-length) bolts of this fabric are produced annually. It is an exceptionally rare and high-quality woven fabric intended for use in summer. Approximately 70 separate hand-working processes are employed to manufacture it. Production methods are pure, traditional, and historically proven. Throughout the ages, this type of clothing has been popular among many social classes. Today, older craftspeople, mostly from rural areas, practice this method, which remains an important tool for empowering community members and reinforcing a sense of identity. However, the aging of skilled craftspeople means a reduction in production, and is difficult to pass on the techniques. Neither the quality nor the quantity of production can compete with what was available decades ago.

References

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