Known as the leader of textile technology development in China, the Li people invented weaving techniques based on their tropical surroundings to harness the various fibers from the rainforests that can be spun into fabrics. There are over 100 species of plants on the island that can be spun into weaving fibers, including hemp and cotton. Most notably, the Li brocade is the most well-known of the textiles developed by the Li people. It has been called a "living fossil" in Chinese textile history, and the technique continues to flourish even today.
These techniques include warp ikat, double-faced embroidery, and single-faced jacquard weaving, which were passed down verbally from mothers to daughters from early childhood. For the first few centuries, the threads were twisted by hand and later spun with rods and spindles until the creation of the spinning wheel. Several types of plants, along with mineral pigments, are used in the production of Li dyes. These include blue, green, and black dyes from leaves, yellow dyes from turmeric, and red and brown dyes from heartwood tree bark.
There are two types of Li embroidery: one that is single-sided, and one that is double-sided. Both types of embroidery are created on waist looms, but the more advanced foot loom is similar to modern loom machines. The foot loom consists of a frame with pedals, shafts, and a heddle. Although originally used to reinforce fabrics so that they would be stronger and last longer, the decorative functions of embroidery quickly took center stage. In fact, many ancient tales have been depicted on these intricate tapestries. When you look at these intricate and meticulous designs, it is nearly impossible to believe they were created thousands of years ago using technology from 4,000 years ago. The designs of Li embroidery are diverse, depicting creatures from mythology, deities, and daily life as well as precise mosaics and geometric patterns.
The Li textile technique continues to be used today, and at Binglanggu, visitors can witness elderly women demonstrate their skills. Though machines can produce similar products more efficiently, handmade Li brocades are still the area's best-selling souvenir. Handmade Li brocades are essential for meaningful social and cultural occasions such as religious rituals, festivals, and weddings. The Li women are usually the ones who design the dresses for the weddings. Li textiles, as carriers of Li culture, are an indispensable part of the cultural heritage of the Li ethnic group. However, in recent decades the number of women who have the weaving and embroidery skills at their command has drastically declined, putting traditional Li textile techniques at risk of extinction. Their protection is therefore imperative since they are in desperate need of preservation.
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