Songket is a traditional Malaysian handwoven fabric created by women in the Malay Peninsula and Sarawak. It is a Tenun material, which belongs to the brocade family of Malay textiles (today, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore). Songket is made of silk or cotton, and it is intricately patterned with gold or silver threads.
Songket weaving carries many aesthetic values, not only on the songket surface, but also it’s full of symbols with their own specific interpretation. It’s documented in history that songket has a significant place and role in Malay socio-cultural society. Weaving songket takes a high level of skill, and it requires dedication and practice for the weaver to master the technique. This type of weaving is rapidly disappearing since competition from machine-made songkets and modern jacquard weaving looms are rapidly replacing them.
The songket is associated with Malay settlements, and its production techniques could have been introduced by Indian or Arab merchants. This can be seen in the ancient statues and clothes found at the ancient Bumiayu temple complex in Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir Regency, South Sumatra Province, Indonesia.
Songket is associated with Malay settlements in Sumatra. Several Kelantan weavers believe the songket weaving technique originated somewhere in the Cambodia-Siam region and reached the Malay courts of Terengganu and Kelantan during the 16th century. The Terengganu weavers believe the technique came to Malaysia from India through Palembang and Jambi, in Sumatra, during the Srivijaya period (7th to 11th century).
Despite a lack of documentation on the origins of the songket, it is most likely that they were brought to the Malay Peninsula through intermarriages between royal families, which were common in the 15th century to seal alliances. Production was centered in politically significant kingdoms because of the high cost of the materials that were originally wound with real gold leaf.
Malaysian society still uses songket for formal wear, especially during celebrations and festivals. Although songket weaving is traditionally done by women, men also contribute to the practice by making the weaving equipment. Songkets are considered to promote virtues, such as diligence and care. They are synonymous with the Malay language and are still practiced in Terengganu.
Songkets have become an inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. They have also been used in tourism, representing a multi-racial Malaysia in the eyes of the world. They can be seen on buildings around Malaysia with the songket motifs. Today, Terengganu's songket attracts tourists, while also providing an income for entrepreneurs.
References
(https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/songket-01505) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songket) (https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-six-major-patterns-in-Songket_tbl1_335813740) (https://www.sarajo.com/product/malaysian-songket/)